yorkmiss
02-22-2006, 07:24 PM
I posted this is another thread - but this is where it should have been...
I just made a new Rolfe mask - actually two.
Here's quick "do it yourself" instructions. Remember - You are taking a great risk when you do this - you could end up with a bad mold and no mask at all.
I suggest you try this on a halloween mask to practice first!
Theroy: In order to make a mold - you need what is called a "Plug" this is a solid cast of an object. Original showbiz plugs are hard to find, and I can't find anyone selling molds either - so here's how I turned a mask into a plug - and then made a mold from it....
Now, these are not all from the same robot, but you will get the point... Here's an original Dook mask:
Mask1 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask1.jpg)
1) I took the hair carefully off the mask with the mask STILL ON the robot.
Mask2 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask2.jpg)
2) Now, you are probably dealing with an old-melted mask... so the eyes, mouth, and nose may not be where they are supposed to be. So, I take the mask off of the snaps - and tape the mask onto the skull so that the face is correctly aligned again. If you mask is not droopy - this may not be necessary... but remember, you want it to be as perfect as possible so the finished product will fit like a new one...
Mask3 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask3.jpg)
3a) I used plaster of paris and drywall tape to make a very basic mould of the exact position the mask was in while on the robot. (The masks are so flimsy at this point - if you take the mask off, you will end up with a distrorted "master")
Mask4 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask4.jpg)
3b) Put the plaster on first to save the basic shape of the face.. then add the drywall tape...
Mask5 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask5.jpg)
3c) Then add another coat of plaster to make a firm brace for the mask to sit in. Remember - this is NOT a mold, just a bace to hold the mask so you can fill it with plaster without distorting... so it doesnt have to be perfect...
Mask6 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask6.jpg)
4) I then removed the plaster "brace" and mask from the robot.
Mask7 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask7.jpg)
4) Here's the tough part - you need to re-assemble the eye sockets into solid spheres. I do my best to match up the original rubber parts where they were cut and snaps were installed (see the pic) then cover any missing parts with tape.(You may have to do something creative with the eye sockets - you cant just close them off, they need to remain con-cave sockets for the mould...I have used Christmas balls as the seem to be the perfrct size)
Mask8 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask8.jpg)
**** More picture to come ****
Also, when filling the mask with plaster, you can't add too much plaster at once or the pressure will cause the mask to swell or distort.)
5) After the mask was filled with a solid plaster, I tool the EXTERIOR plaster shell off, and cleaned the mask - you should have a PERFECT SOLID Rolfe at this point - this is your PLUG. If it is NOT perfect (and your first one will not be) start over.
6) With your perfect mask, buy some silicone mold making material off of Ebay - use the thick brush on type.. and coat the old mask with about 1/2 gallon of silicone and let it cure. (No need for a release agent as silicone will not stick to ANYTHING)
7) Again, use some plaster and make an external shell for the exterior of the silicone mold. Silicone is very flimsy and wont stand up on it's own.
After the shell (and it needs to be at least 1" think of plaster) is dry - pull off the shell from the silicone, and pull the silicone off of the plug (mask)
You now have 1 ruined Rolfe mask! But a silicone mold that will out live you! (100 years or so)
http://www.sinistershadows.com/mold.jpg
9)Put the silicone mold inside the plaster shell to hold it's shape, and your ready to cast a mask. I use brush on latex myself - it's easy to work with and wont stick to anything... and it's easy to paint. I'll see if I can't get a few pictures of the masks I made, but you would never be able to tell them apart from an original.
I also re-use the hair from the original mask as long as it is in good condition.
I have also found that after making the mask, but before you remove it from the mold, if you soak fiberglass cloth in whatever you are using to makt the mask, and then place that inside the flat parts of the mask (mouth, nose) it will hold it's shape a little better when you pull it out of the mold.
I make the mold from silicone because the mask has many large areas that need to be pulled through smaller areas. For example - the eye sockets are spheres about the size of Christmas balls... but the holes for the eyes are somewhat smaller. When you cast the mold - you will need to pull the mask off of a mold with two big "balls" on it. If your mold was made of plaster alone - you would stress the new mask by having to pull it over the eye socket "balls". I find it easier to have a mold and mask that both "give" a little when pulling them apart. Plus...
1) Silicone last FOREVER!
2) Silicone can be heated to speed up mask cure time...
3) Nothing sticks to silicone - so you wont need to use a release agent!
Once the mask is pulled from the mold - you do have to cut the back of the eye sockets open to fit over the eyes and use the excess rubber to install snaps that hold the mask to the bridge of the nose area of the skull.
http://www.sinistershadows.com/mask.jpg
At least that's the way I did that.
Here it is - my first painted mask. It's the first thing we ever air-brushed, so don't laugh....
http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/rolfedwolfe.jpg
I only did Rolfe and Dook so far - I am working on a Fatz and Looney Bird... but the silicone cost about $100 for each mask, so I can't do them all at once. I hope to have a mold for every character eventually... Right now Beach Bear and Billy Bob are in such good condition I am going to leave them alone until I NEED to replace the masks.
I just made a new Rolfe mask - actually two.
Here's quick "do it yourself" instructions. Remember - You are taking a great risk when you do this - you could end up with a bad mold and no mask at all.
I suggest you try this on a halloween mask to practice first!
Theroy: In order to make a mold - you need what is called a "Plug" this is a solid cast of an object. Original showbiz plugs are hard to find, and I can't find anyone selling molds either - so here's how I turned a mask into a plug - and then made a mold from it....
Now, these are not all from the same robot, but you will get the point... Here's an original Dook mask:
Mask1 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask1.jpg)
1) I took the hair carefully off the mask with the mask STILL ON the robot.
Mask2 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask2.jpg)
2) Now, you are probably dealing with an old-melted mask... so the eyes, mouth, and nose may not be where they are supposed to be. So, I take the mask off of the snaps - and tape the mask onto the skull so that the face is correctly aligned again. If you mask is not droopy - this may not be necessary... but remember, you want it to be as perfect as possible so the finished product will fit like a new one...
Mask3 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask3.jpg)
3a) I used plaster of paris and drywall tape to make a very basic mould of the exact position the mask was in while on the robot. (The masks are so flimsy at this point - if you take the mask off, you will end up with a distrorted "master")
Mask4 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask4.jpg)
3b) Put the plaster on first to save the basic shape of the face.. then add the drywall tape...
Mask5 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask5.jpg)
3c) Then add another coat of plaster to make a firm brace for the mask to sit in. Remember - this is NOT a mold, just a bace to hold the mask so you can fill it with plaster without distorting... so it doesnt have to be perfect...
Mask6 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask6.jpg)
4) I then removed the plaster "brace" and mask from the robot.
Mask7 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask7.jpg)
4) Here's the tough part - you need to re-assemble the eye sockets into solid spheres. I do my best to match up the original rubber parts where they were cut and snaps were installed (see the pic) then cover any missing parts with tape.(You may have to do something creative with the eye sockets - you cant just close them off, they need to remain con-cave sockets for the mould...I have used Christmas balls as the seem to be the perfrct size)
Mask8 (http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/mask8.jpg)
**** More picture to come ****
Also, when filling the mask with plaster, you can't add too much plaster at once or the pressure will cause the mask to swell or distort.)
5) After the mask was filled with a solid plaster, I tool the EXTERIOR plaster shell off, and cleaned the mask - you should have a PERFECT SOLID Rolfe at this point - this is your PLUG. If it is NOT perfect (and your first one will not be) start over.
6) With your perfect mask, buy some silicone mold making material off of Ebay - use the thick brush on type.. and coat the old mask with about 1/2 gallon of silicone and let it cure. (No need for a release agent as silicone will not stick to ANYTHING)
7) Again, use some plaster and make an external shell for the exterior of the silicone mold. Silicone is very flimsy and wont stand up on it's own.
After the shell (and it needs to be at least 1" think of plaster) is dry - pull off the shell from the silicone, and pull the silicone off of the plug (mask)
You now have 1 ruined Rolfe mask! But a silicone mold that will out live you! (100 years or so)
http://www.sinistershadows.com/mold.jpg
9)Put the silicone mold inside the plaster shell to hold it's shape, and your ready to cast a mask. I use brush on latex myself - it's easy to work with and wont stick to anything... and it's easy to paint. I'll see if I can't get a few pictures of the masks I made, but you would never be able to tell them apart from an original.
I also re-use the hair from the original mask as long as it is in good condition.
I have also found that after making the mask, but before you remove it from the mold, if you soak fiberglass cloth in whatever you are using to makt the mask, and then place that inside the flat parts of the mask (mouth, nose) it will hold it's shape a little better when you pull it out of the mold.
I make the mold from silicone because the mask has many large areas that need to be pulled through smaller areas. For example - the eye sockets are spheres about the size of Christmas balls... but the holes for the eyes are somewhat smaller. When you cast the mold - you will need to pull the mask off of a mold with two big "balls" on it. If your mold was made of plaster alone - you would stress the new mask by having to pull it over the eye socket "balls". I find it easier to have a mold and mask that both "give" a little when pulling them apart. Plus...
1) Silicone last FOREVER!
2) Silicone can be heated to speed up mask cure time...
3) Nothing sticks to silicone - so you wont need to use a release agent!
Once the mask is pulled from the mold - you do have to cut the back of the eye sockets open to fit over the eyes and use the excess rubber to install snaps that hold the mask to the bridge of the nose area of the skull.
http://www.sinistershadows.com/mask.jpg
At least that's the way I did that.
Here it is - my first painted mask. It's the first thing we ever air-brushed, so don't laugh....
http://www.sinistershadows.com/images/showbiz/rolfedwolfe.jpg
I only did Rolfe and Dook so far - I am working on a Fatz and Looney Bird... but the silicone cost about $100 for each mask, so I can't do them all at once. I hope to have a mold for every character eventually... Right now Beach Bear and Billy Bob are in such good condition I am going to leave them alone until I NEED to replace the masks.